France Archives | Carla Coulson

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November 6, 2019

Carla’s Ultimate Guide to Paris

Dearest Paris Lover,

I wrote this blog a couple of years ago for one of my best friends who was coming to Paris and have updated it today as it is still one of the most questions I’m asked, “What would I recommend for a groovy gal if she just had a couple of days in Paris?”

As a coach and photographer, one of the things that I believe in is the power of pleasure, beauty, and joy and the wonderful benefits it has on our nervous system and mindset. So my version of Paris has plenty of things on the list for the senses!

So I have written an updated version, of my ‘best friends’ guide to Paris, where I’ve put a lot of thought into it and jammed packed it with things I love about Paris and can’t wait to do myself.

Here goes.

1. Coffee

The first thing I hear when I meet up with most Australians in Paris is ‘agghhhh the coffee’. Now for the uninitiated us, Australians have some of the best coffee in the world (move over, Italy!) so when we arrive in Paris and see those gorgeous cafes, we are imaging great coffee. Wrong!

Now, anyone that gets off a 24-hour flight deserves a good cup and here are some of my favourites where UHT milk (that is widely used in Paris) is banned.

Boot Cafe

19 rue du Pont aux Choux
Paris 75003

I love this place! It is a teensy weensy cafe in the third and it is gorgeous in every way. This cafe was the former home of a boot maker and the owner has kept the sign out the front and added even more atmosphere and beauty inside. Be warned it’s tiny, 2 tables but they do great coffee to take-away. It’s just around the corner from groovy Merci so you can stop in for a coffee on the way. This place makes me happy.

Coutume Institut

60 rue des Ecoles
Paris 75005

The fabulous boys at Coutume Cafe have opened an ever so cool space right next to the Sorbonne. You feel like you are in Finland or Australia. White trestle tables to share, big open space and lots of light and heavenly coffee. Tell your 20 year old friends they will love it as will you!

Fragments

76 Rue des Tournelles
75003

Tucked behind the busy Boulevard Beaumarchais Fragments is not a place you accidentally walk by. Look for the traditional Parisian shopfront painted black. These guys are serious about their coffee, the pace is slow and relaxed so don’t come screaming in for a quick take-away. The coffee is great and they serve a delicious range of cakes and salads. Hubby rates this as one of his best coffees yet!

Cafe Coutume

47 Rue Babylone
Paris 75007

A French/Aussie combo started this cafe and were at the forefront of Aussie’s doing great coffee in Paris. Not far from Le Bon Marche in the 7th these guys take their coffee very seriously. Bare-bones decor and yummy things for a light lunch. Coffee and milk 5 stars!

KB Cafe
53 Ave Trudaine
5009

The French guy that owns KB took a trip to Australia, walked into a Bondi cafe, couldn’t believe the coffee and remained for a couple of years. On his return to Paris he opened KB Cafe in gorgeous SOPI (south Pigalle) and has a stream of devoted customers each day. If you are in the area and hankering for a good coffee or a great green tea drop in and say hi.

Holybelly
5 or 19 Rue Lucien Sampaix
75010

Two cafes on the same street!! Ahh Holybelly, this is the ultimate “I’m missing my Aussie cafe breakfast’ place! I love Holybelly, eggs like you were in Sydney, coffee like you were in Melbourne, friendly staff and a cute space to boot…

Ten Belles
10 Rue de la Grange Aux Belles
75010

2. A walk or drink along the Seine

Something magical happened in Paris a couple of years ago, the once very busy road along the river was closed to traffic and has become the most magical place to bike, walk, drink or eat with your friends. Paris has turned parts of the left and right bank into boats with bars, restaurants, dance schools and places to grab a beach chair and relax. One of my all time favourite things to do on a beautiful day.

3. Merci

First shopping stop Merci. Merci has become my second home. I love eveything about this shop, the products, the space, the wonderful restaurants and cafe.. But most of all I love that a percentage of profits are donated to charity. I lunch at the canteen downstairs as it has great ‘girl food’ Paris and you look out onto a beautiful herb garden. There are lots of lovely fresh salads, soups and organic juices that are hard to find on the menu in Paris.

Merci
111 Boulevard Beaumarchais
Paris 75003

4. Bunker down in a Bistro

I love Paris’s bistrots and there is nothing better to do on a cold, rainy Parisian day than to eat in one of these wonderful, atmospheric bistrots. There are so many glorious ones and if you are lucky to sit in front of someone you love, the memory will be burned into your heart forever. These are two of my favourites

Le Carreau
5 rue de la Corderie
75003

Au Petit Fer a Cheval
30 rue Vieille du Temple
75004 Paris

5. Picnic on the lawns of the Louvre

Now who would have thought when you are not allowed to lie on the grass in almost all of Paris’s park (except for handkerchief size squares) yet you are able to picnic amongst the hedges of the Louvre. Go figure?? I love it here in Summer, smack bang between the Tuileries garden and the Louvre you feel like you are in the centre of Paris and what a backdrop. Take a picnic, spread out and enjoy the long summer nights.

6. Rooftop Bars – Get up high!!

One of the most fabulous things to do on a spectacular Paris day is go to one of the many rooftop bars around Paris. You feel like you are top of the world and seeing Paris from a different viewpoint feels all so glamorous. The rooftop bar at the Hotel Raphael spoils you with a view of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe and has serious cocktails. Bring your wallet!!

Hôtel Raphael
17 Avenue Kléber,
75116 Paris, France

7. Small Museums

There are so many wonderful museums in Paris but I love the small ones. The Louvre is incredible but I get an anxiety attack everytime I go, I leave feeling guilty that I haven’t seen it all. Instead I discovered the small ones. Galerie Musee Baccarat is irresistible. Housed in ancient Hotel Particulier, France’s most glamorous glass is awe inspiring. I also adore Musee Bourdelle, Antoine Bourdelle’s incredible sculpture museum with monumental sculpture and original artist’s atelier and for photography lovers, the MEP is a must.

Galerie Musée Baccarat
Place des Etats-Unis
75116 Paris

Musée Bourdelle
18, rue Antoine Bourdelle
75015 Paris

Maison Européenne de la Photographie
5-7 Rue de Fourcy
75004
(Metro: St. Paul)

8. Florists

One of the most beautiful things I love about Paris is her flower shops. Those sweet little local shops with their fine selection of peonies and sweet peas, lillies and roses and their devoted staff creating bouquets with love.

L’Artisan Fleuriste is in my hood and has been my go to fleuriste for all my flower photos and it fills my heart with joy and beauty everytime I walk in the door. Most markets have a wonderful flower section.

L’Artisan Fleuriste
95 rue Vieille du Temple
75003 Paris

L’Arrosoir
80 rue Oberkampf
75011 Paris

9. Jardin du Luxembourg

Why?? Because it is an oasis of gorgeousness in urban Paris. When I have a giant case of jetlag I cross the river and jog in Jardin du Luxembourg. I feel like calling out ‘silence please’ as I enter this garden. For me it’s a spiritual experience to walk underneath the chestnut trees in bloom and try and discern one perfume from another. If you want to see the world’s greenest grass, this is the place. French attention for detail in every leaf.

10. Le Palais Royale

This is the double whammy.. Whilst all the tourists are circling the Louvre and trying to find space in the Jardin du Tuileries the Palais Royale is left to the locals. Tucked behind the Comedie Francaise it is one of Paris’s most beautiful spaces with a garden to boot and some of Paris’s best shops. If there is one place in Paris you should buy perfume it is in the ultra French space of Serge Lutens in Les Salons du Palais Royale. Oodles of French ambience. This place makes my heart skip!!

11. Desserts…

Paris has the best desserts in the world. I can’t get excited about the Beef Bourguignon or the Confit di Canard but put a tarte citron or chocolat chaud in front of me and I am purrrringggg.. I love the atmosphere of Angelina’s on rue du Rivoli and they make the best hot chocolate in Paris. Old world Paris, pure rich hot chocolate in silver pots with whipped cream – it could get a girl into a lot of trouble!! ps. go for morning tea and don’t even think about going on Sundays!!

You all know about Laduree and their to-die-for macaroons but there are so many wonderful local places to try in Paris. I live just around the corner from Patisserie Pain-de-Sucre and these guys take cakes very seriously. Lots of original flavour combinations and they have just opened a new shop with a wonderful bench out the front where you can sit and savour them!!

Angelina’s
226 rue du Rivoli
75001 Paris

Pierre Herme

18 rue Saint Croix de la Bretonnerie

75004

Chambelland (Gluten Free bakery)
14 Rue Ternaux,
75011 Paris

12. Astier Villatte

If I had a shop in Paris I would love it to be like Astier de Villatte. A little run down, like tumbling head first into a magical Parisian version of Alice in Wonderland. Magical teacups and ceramics all in beautiful white, hand-picked diaries and paper weights that lift a nostalgic heart to new heights.

Astier de Villatte
173 Rue Saint-Honoré
75001

Astier de Villatte
16 Rue de Tournon
Paris 75006

13. Perfume

I had the great fortune to photograph many Parisian perfumeries and I LOVE THEM! Serge Lutens in the Palais Royale has atmosphere and perfume ‘a go go’. Frederic Malle makes some of the best perfumes in the world and his Carnal Flower full of tuberose is my favourite.

Serge Lutens – Palais Royale
142 Galerie de Valois
75001 Paris

Frederic Malle
13, rue Francs Bourgeois
Paris 75004

Buly
45 Rue de santoinge
Paris 75003

14. Le Haut Marais

You musn’t leave Paris without visiting the top end of the Marais where all sorts of grooviness happens! Between rue Francs Bourgeois and Republique flanked by Bld Beaumarchais and in the heart along rue de Bretange there are divine boutiques, bars, cafes and the fabulous market of Les Enfants Rouges for lunch. It’s where all the grooviness is happening right now in Paris.

15. Wild and The Moon

For my lovely vegan and gluten free friends Paris is tricky to find the right food but one of my favourite haunts is Wild and The Moon. This fabulous eat in or takeaway chain has delicious prepared food that will make your gluten free/vegan heart pound with delight at the choice.

Wild and the Moon
55 Rue Charlot,
75003 Paris

Wild and the Moon
9 rue du Plâtre,
75004

16. Deyrolle

You know I love animals so you are probably wondering why I like Deyrolle? Deyrolle is a taxidermist with a difference and one of those old worldly, quirky places that possibly you don’t expect Paris to have. Deyrolle proudly state that all animals have died of natural causes. Polar bears and lions, baby elephants and advarks.. One of Paris’s most fabulous shops is found in the elegant 7th.. As you mount the old wooden stairs and enter into animal fantasyland you will be forgiven for the ‘oh my god jaw drop’.. Out the back you can have your made to order butterfly or bug selection framed. An exquisite present that has a constant line of Parisians queuing..Only in Paris.

Deyrolle
46 rue du Bac
Paris 75007

17. Museum National D’Histoire Naturelle

I was stumbling around the Jardin des Plantes one Sunday morning when hubby and I decided to enter the above museum. If I have ever had a ‘OMG’ moment in Paris it was here. Holy Dinosaur Batman!! If you are a stylist, a five-year-old boy, a set designer or a lover of beauty run to this fabulous museum. It’s amazing!!! Feels like it hasn’t been touched since they dragged all those bones in here. No interactive screens, no illuminated gadgets just good old fashioned wood, bones and cabinets.. I LURVE THIS PLACE.

Museum National D’Histoire Naturelle
57 Rue Cuvier
75005 Paris

18. Go Glam

Paris has some of the most glamorous decors in the world. Walking into a high end, sophisticated bar or restaurant in Paris transports you to another world and another sensation.

If you don’t want to break the budget but still want a super luxe experience you can have high tea at the Ritz or a drink at the swish Le Meurice or possibly my favourite summer lunch at Lou Lou’s at the Art Decoratif where you sit out on the lawns of the louvre under white umbrellas and with a view of the Eiffel Tower.

Lou Lous
107 Rue de Rivoli,
75001 Paris

Le Meurice
228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris

Ritz Paris
15 Place Vendôme,
75001 Paris

19. To Market to Market…

And what is a visit to Paris without a visit to a local market?? I would say it is essential!! As important as standing in front of the Mona Lisa in the Louvre!! Real Parisian life revolves around the market and all you need to do is to join the crowd at Paris’s biggest market on sunday at Marche Richard Lenoir and you will see just how important food is still in a Parisian’s daily life. Keep moving otherwise you might experience caddy rage!!

20. Enjoy

The greatest thing about visiting Paris is to take your time, wander the streets, sit in the cafes, push open big heavy doors that lead to secret courtyards to see what is revealed and discover Paris one layer at a time. You will always have your version of Paris, what lit you up, a conversation with a kind person that stays with you or a bite of a choclate fondant that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

I hope you enjoyed my addresses. I would love to hear in the comments section below what you love about Paris or a favourite address that I might like to try next time I’m out and about.

Love and light

Carla x

Chateau Gudanes, carla coulson, karina waters, french chateau, france

November 6, 2014

in France, Photography Tips, Travel Photography

by Carla

22 Comments

Chateau Gudanes – Tips On How To Shoot A Chateau

All photos Chateau Gudanes Copyright Carla Coulson

A while back I was asked by Harper’s Bazaar to shoot the beautiful Chateau Gudanes and the Waters family, the wonderful family that fell in love with this place and have taken on the massive job of renovating it.

While it’s awfully exciting to be asked to shoot a Chateau (I blogged about it here) it’s also daunting. The sheer size of this place makes it a photographic challenge in the taking and in the planning. You see we are talking about a place that has 70 rooms and is perched on an exquisite piece of land surrounded by mountains.

I thought it would be fun today to give you some inside tips on how I shot it.

1. Scout It

I shot the exterior and interior in one day but I was never going to be able to shoot everything. I had the luxury of seeing Chateau Gudanes months earlier which made me realise I would need to rent special long lenses to be able to shoot it from up on the mountain. I made a list of my favourite things and started with number 1!

2. Hero Shot

OK, so on a place like this there are probably only going to be a couple of hero shots (the one the magazine will use to open the story). I felt it would be a shot of the Chateau or the gates because both of them a breathtaking. So I shot the Chateau from as many angles as possible. I was up at sunrise and it was a day that changed every five minutes so I was lucky to catch fog, sunshine and rain in a space of an hour.

So I am like a dog with a hamshank! I am not walking away from a shoot without the shot so I will shoot from as many angles as I can to make sure I have what the magazine needs. These are just half a dozen of maybe 16 options I handed in of the Chateau and the gates giving horizontal and vertical options.

The gates were such an amazing subject to shoot..

3. Get Up High Or Shoot It In It’s Context

So we all want to know where is this Chateau and what’s around it! The only way to do this is to go for a drive and see what you can find. Fortunately I had the lovely Karina Waters as a guide who knows this little baby’s best angles and she kindly showed me her favourite spots.

4. Shooting Interiors

I am super excited by interiors like this, I love the patina, the architecture and the light. There is only one difficulty the proportions are huge so you really need to be careful from where you shoot or you end up with very distorted lines. I shot all the interiors on a tripod on approx 400 ISO..

In the case of the staircase I centred myself between the staircase and the door on the right and put my tripod up as high as it would go and then stood on a little stool.

As you can see I loved the staircase and didn’t want to miss a shot of this beautiful balustrade. I rarely use a wide angle lens but this is one case where it was the only way to get the whole perspective. When using a wide angle lens on architecture I often find it is better when you are on top of the subject as opposed to being far away. When you are far away it looks distorted.

To shoot this pic I paid careful attention the lines and distortion. I had my tripod as high as it would go and used a ladder to shoot from so that I was as close as possible to the middle of the distance from floor to ceiling. The closer I am to the floor with a height like this the more the vertical lines will be distorted..

I adored how Karina had little still lifes happening in many of the rooms, I wandered around the rooms looking at them from all angles taking hand held snaps till I liked something I saw and then I would set up my tripod.

As I was conscious of shooting a whole series of portraits the following day, I wanted to be careful that I had many different angles and wasn’t presenting the same room over and over again shot from the same perspective for the interior shots and the portraits.

I love playing with lines and shapes when shooting interiors and this one was fun but a challenge. I had recently bought a super tripod with a central column that lies horizontally (I could have got a pair of Louboutins for the same price) but this is where it out performs any other tripod. I set the camera up with the lens pointing straight up through the stairwell and I crawled under my camera to check focus, composition and exposure.

This too was shot from a ladder and I centred myself in the middle of the shot.

5. Details

I shot as many details as I could of the architecture. Detail shots give you a sense of intimacy and are great combination for an art director to work with with general interiors (of course we managed to squeeze a cat into our pic – thanks Karina).

6. Exterior Landscapes and Grounds

We are almost done! I shot scenes from the Chateau windows down onto the village below, shot from the front of the house looking back towards the mountains, in the park and played with the light.

Unfortunately, I can’t show you all the shots as my blog will blow up but I hope this helps and gives you an idea of what a wonderful place Chateau Gudanes is and if you ever stumble across a Chateau to shoot these tips might help.

Check out the fabulous Chateau Gudanes here cause it’s marvellous… A huge thank-you to the Walters family and the lovely Karina for making this shoot a dream. You can find them on Instagram and Facebook.

You can see the Harper’s Bazaar final shoot here.

“For me, every day is a new thing. I approach each project with a new insecurity, almost like the first project I ever did. And I get the sweats. I go in and start working, I’m not sure where I’m going. If I knew where I was going I wouldn’t do it.” Architect Frank Gehry

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