24 Hours in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily with Jann Huizenga

 

Barista Carmelo at Donnafugata Bar (Piazza Pola) 

I left a huge chunk of my heart in Italy so being able to check into Jann Huizenga’s blog, BaroqueSicily, which documents her life in a small village in Southeast Sicily lets me relive Italy vicariously. Today Jann takes us on a leisurely tour of her favourite village ‘must do’s'…..Over to the fabulous Jann…

8am Let’s jump-start our morning with a Sicilian sugar rush at Donnafugata Bar (Piazza Pola). In warm weather, Carmelo the Barista will bring us a typical summer breakfast of almond granita and brioscia. Or a double espresso and brioscia oozing pistachio cream, freshly made with nuts from the slopes of Etna. 

9am We pop into the Duomo San Giorgio to admire the light filtering in from the 1820 neoclassical cupola (inspired by the Pantheon in Paris).

The splendid baroque church itself dates from the mid-1700s, rebuilt, along with the much of the village, after the 1693 earthquake that leveled much of Southeast Sicily. There’s a little museum attached to the church.

Sunlit cupola

10am Ready? We’re going on an urban hike. We wend our way through medieval lanes, marveling at the overlay of 17th-century baroque style.

 We arrive at Piazza della Repubblica. There are some churches on this piazza—tiny Ibla has dozens—but it’s Santa Maria dell’Itria (off to the right and up a dozen or so steps) that catches our attention for its golden baroque beauty and five interior altars.

Santa Maria dell’itria

After a quick spremuta (fresh blood orange juice) at the kiosk on Piazza della Repubblica, we’re ready to scale Via Scale. Up up up we go, come on, only a few hundred more steps to go.

We’re climbing right through the old Jewish quarter. Yes, it’s steep and our hearts are thumping to beat the band, but forza, forza—it’s worth the view from on high.

View of ragusa ibla

 We catch our breath, ooh and aah, and snap a few photos. We’re more than halfway to Upper Ragusa now, so the shoppers among us continue on up. The rest of us skip back down, stopping in Santa Maria delle Scale, a church so atmospheric it makes our eyes water.

1pm Stomachs growl. We opt to have lunch outside in Ibla, either at Trattorie Bettola (where we choose tagliatelle alla Bettola) or under the grape arbor at La Rusticana (where we order the grilled pesce spada, swordfish).

3pm The hike, the food, and the sun have drained us. We close the shutters and sink into bed, along with five million Sicilians.

4pm We wake with a single obsession: gelato. And we know where to go: Gelati Divini, on Ibla’s Piazza Duomo. We agonize over flavors: Fennel? Carob? Aztec chocolate? Orange blossom? The owner, Rosaria, lets us sample them all. We settle on a combo of rose petal and jasmine.

6pm We join the little crowd for the evening passeggiata along Ibla’s main drag. We stop at the Circolo di Conversazione, the aristocrats’ club, and try to get inside for a look-see. Right across the way is the fishermen’s club. (Sicily is still quite divided along class lines.) We browse through the lace shop and stroll through the palm-lined Ibla Gardens.

 Ibla gardens

 8pm Chef Ciccio Sultano, seen here with his bunch of parsley, is perhaps Sicily’s most famous chef.

 

 Chef ciccio

 We splurge at his 2-Michelin-star restaurant, Il Duomo, ordering one of the amazing tasting menus. When we trip out three or four hours later, the village is magically lit up.

Where to stay in Ragusa Ibla:

For a hotel, check out the Locanda Don Serafino, an upscale grotto. I highly recommend Caelum Hyblae—a very charming B&B with a rooftop terrace (ask for the room with the view of the cupola).

Grazie Mille Carla, I hope to see you one day in my Sicilian village,   Jann x

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8 Responses to 24 Hours in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily with Jann Huizenga

  1. I am catching up on your blog, Carla
    Love this one, went to Sicily years ago and am still smiling today when I rethink and relive my trip.
    Love the shots of your gorgeous nieces ! they are beautiful ! and great actresses. I see someone else compared your shots to la grande Annie L !
    counting on seeing you in Brussels soon :)

  2. Carla says:

    Annie so happy you loved this, bringing back beautiful memories that make you smile! :)
    Thank-you for your compliments too kind xxCarla

  3. Debra Kolkka says:

    I love Jann’s blog too. I must get to Sicily soon.

  4. La Contessa says:

    I will definately subscribe to her BLOG, so I too can re~live the ITALIAN experience!LOve the photo of the chef with his parsley!I have never been to SICILIY………a MUST I CAN SEE!

  5. Carla & Jann-thank you, + beautiful photos. “Love Italy” said the piglet xxpeggybraswelldesign.com

  6. Liliana says:

    Grazie da una siciliana che vive a Ragusa,bella nostra Ibla,bellissime foto,complimenti,buona serata,Liliana C.

  7. lucia says:

    ciao Carla!
    I found your blog through Jann and her lovely blog Baroque Sicily.(and i found her trhough my blog, too)
    Complimenti, I read your Sicilian day in ragusa Ibla. I work here between Siracusa & Ragusa as a tourist guide and it’s great to hear the positive impressions that my country and its people had on you.
    I like photography but as just beginner….
    complimenti..now I’m your follower and , of course
    you’re welcome !

    Lucia

    ps I have two freind of mine from Australia whi fell in love with Ortigia (the old Siracusa) and just bought a house here to come back on holidays in future!

  8. Oh how wonderful. I was packed and ready to leave Menton for a trip to Sicily one time and sadly my friend’s husband (they were coming over from America – his father was born in Sicily) got sick and so it never happened. Adore your photos and our day in Ragusa – love the chef and his parsley, adore the village at night. And all those food descriptions. Wonderful! Grazie mille, Jann xxx

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